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<a href=press.php target=_top>Back</a><br /><br /> <table cellpadding=0 cellspacing=0 border=0 width=300> <tr><td bgcolor=#9DB783><img src=images/spacer.gif width=1 height=1 /><br /></td> </tr> </table> <br /> <b>Wine Magazine</b> <span class=date>October 2002</span><br /><br /> <b>Fresh and Wild</b><br /><br /> You'll drive past it if you're not careful. This one-time village 'local' was stripped out last winter by new owners Matt and Lisa Tebbutt and transformed into an attractive restaurant. The large dining area is finished with polished wood furniture, flagstone and hardwood flooring and minimal wall decoration. Chef Matt Tebbutt worked with London luminaries Alistair Little, Marco Pierre White, and Sally Clarke before moving to Wales.<br /><br /> After sampling the wonderful sour mash bread with wild garlic flowers and olive oil, I ordered the deep-fried sand eel (£4.95). Delivered from Devon, the generous portion of these 'rich man's whitebait' were served with lemon, deep-fried leaf parsley and a powerful aioli. The combination was simple and delicious. My guest opted for the pizzetta bianca (£5.95), a large thin-crust pizza filled with generous portions of sliced new potato, parmesan and mozzarella cheese and covered with truffle oil. Again, a great combination of simple flavours effectively executed and presented. A bottle of Domaine La Condamine L'Eveque Cepage Viognier 2000 (£15.00) proved a good accompaniment. Most of the list is supplied by Tanners of Shrewsbury, and there are plans for a fine wine list later this year.<br /><br /> Main course included a good range of fish and meat dishes. Beef and lamb is grown locally; while fish and seafood is supplied by Seafield in Cornwall and vintage local supplier Vin Sullivan in Abergavenny, among others. Game and offal is supplied by West Country - it is good to see offal dishes making a comeback after a long absence. I was tempted by the papardelle of veal sweetbreads but eventually opted for the pan-fried calves' liver (£12.95). Cooked to perfection, the liver was as soft as butter and served with creamed potato, mangetout and a rich, reduced gravy. My guest went for chargrilled the sea bass (£13.95) with orange braised chicory and citrus velouté. The fish was fresh and well prepared. The balance of flavours was excellent. We chose the Salice Salentino Riserva DOC, Candido 1997 (£16.95) to partner these main courses.<br /><br /> Blue Yorkshire cheese with toffee dates and walnut toast was the only cheese on offer but this was made up for by the list of lavish puddings. We eventually opted for the pear tarte tatin with thick jersey cream for two people (£5.95 each). Not the traditional tarte tatin, the dish was prepared like an upside-down cake. The result was dramatic - a hot clafoutis drowned in a delicious combination of caramelised sugar and eau de vie. There was pastry in there somewhere but this had begun to dissolve deliciously by the time it reached the table. The half bottle of Muscat de Saint Jean de Minervois 2000 (£9.00) was overpowered by the tarte tatin. Sadly, no pudding wines were available by the glass. No fixed price menus here. A la carte dining with good espresso or filter coffee to finish, you are looking at £40 per head.<br /><br /> <table cellpadding=0 cellspacing=0 border=0 width=300> <tr><td bgcolor=#9DB783><img src=images/spacer.gif width=1 height=1 /><br /></td> </tr> </table> <br /> <a href=press.php target=_top>Back</a>
AA Notable Wine List 2008 & 2009
Perfect Pub Awards : Best Food 2007
Wales the True Taste (Cymru y Gwir Flas) - Dining Out Gold 2005
AA Restaurant of the Year for Wales
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