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Bristol Evening Post
July 2002
After working under the tutelage of some of Britain's best chefs, Matt Tebbutt has returned to his homeland to run a remote country pub deep in the middle of Monmouthshire.
The 28-year old chef who, with his wife Lisa, took over The Foxhunter in the village of Nantyderry last summer, has a CV that most chefs would die for.
Having gained a diploma at the respected Leith's cookery school, Matt went on to work under London chefs Alistair Little, Marco Pierre White, Sally Clarke (Clarke's) and Bruce Poole (Chez Bruce).
Add to this impressive list of mentors such high-profile customers as Franco Taruschio (who use to run the nearby Walnut Tree) and Bristol chef Stephen Markwick (who supplies the kitchen with organic vegetables), and you have all the trapping of one of the best food pubs within easy driving distance of Bristol.
The Foxhunter is situated between Usk and Abergavenny, and used to be the Nantyderry railway station-master's house.
It later became tea rooms and then a pub, named after village resident Sir Henry Llewellyn who won Britain's only gold medal at the 1952 Helsinki Olympics, riding his horse Foxhunter.
Its new owners have completely refurbished the place. Relaxed, modern and cosy, it's like walking into a top London restaurant, with fresh flowers in glass vases, handmade furniture, heavy cutlery and crisp linen napkins.
The menu changes daily and Matt Tebbutt cooks Modern British dishes with an Italian edge (clearly Alistair Little's influence), using as much seasonal, local, organic produce as he can get his hands on.
There is little in the way of passing trade so lunches are quiet (except Sundays where a two-course meal costs just £15.50), but evenings are packed with people travelling from Bristol, Gloucester and Cardiff.
I started my lunch with a bowl of stunning homemade focaccia glistening with olive oil and fragrant with fresh rosemary.
A rustic Italian-style starter of tagliatelle of octopus (£6.95) arrived in a lidded white china bowl. The removal of the lid produced a cloud of steam and a heady mix of aromas from the perfectly timed pieces of octopus, fresh basil leaves, rosemary and fresh tomatoes.
My main course of fillet of bream (£13.95) was extremely fresh, well seasoned and accompanied by a huge portion of spinach and Jersey Royals sprinkled with sea salt and snipped chives.
The presentation of both dishes was refreshingly simple, unfussy and exactly how it should be, with no unnecessary ingredients.
A glorious bowl of cardamon ice cream (£4.95) with warm, buttery Italian shortbread, washed down with a double espresso (£2.20) completed a faultless meal.
With wine (a splendid bottle of J&F Lurton Sauvignon Blanc for only £11.95), the bill was exactly £40, exclusive of service. For food of this quality (and this was top London restaurant quality), it was money well spent.
The Foxhunter opened too late to be included into the 2002 guidebooks, but it is sure to enter them later in the year.
I suggest you pay a visit before then, as you probably won't get a table afterwards.
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AA Notable Wine List 2008 & 2009
Perfect Pub Awards : Best Food 2007
Wales the True Taste (Cymru y Gwir Flas) - Dining Out Gold 2005
AA Restaurant of the Year for Wales
Email:
info@thefoxhunter.com
Telephone: 01873 881101
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