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Waitrose Food Illustrated
July 2003
I once asked a Brecon local about brunch. After correcting my pronunciation, he told me that he had heard of it but had never been there. With the exception of a couple of large Cardiff hotels, brunch is virtually unknown in Wales. But change is in the air. The Foxhunter, in the middle of rural Monmouthshire, now offers the elusive repast on Saturdays.
The menu includes some old favourites like eggs benedict (£6.95), Caesar salad (£5.95) and corned beef hash (£8.95), as well as dishes with a pronounced seasonal and local flavour. In spring, River Wye elvers, deep-fried with a wild garlic mayonnaise (£25); in the summer, gull's eggs from the West Coat served with celery salt and watercress salad (£8.95).
The cool interior with its comfortable wooden furniture lends itself to long and lazy brunches on hot summer mornings. Bloody Marys (£4.95) were dispensed at the bar before we made our way to the table, where homemade bread with local unsalted butter was waiting. To accompany this we ordered an appetiser of Spanish ham, thinly sliced, cured bacon fat, pitted olives and grilled flatbread (£7.95).
My haddock brandade dressed with a poached egg and saffron hollandaise (£6.95) was cooked to perfection to produce a classic comfort-food combination. My companion's plate of sashimi (£8.95) included slices of the freshest salmon, sea bass, tuna and mackerel. Instead of the usual pickled ginger, the homemade wasabi and light soy sauce were joined by a sweet cucumber and dill pickle.
Our final platter was a Welsh rarebit (£4.95) that chef Matt Tebbutt has done his own take on, using locally made Cheddar spiced with Worcestershire sauce and beer, grilled on a muffin an finished with a rich sweet onion marmalade.
The service is friendly and well informed, and at around £35 a head including drinks, is excellent value. Brunch is served daily from noon until 2.30pm.
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AA Notable Wine List 2008 & 2009
Perfect Pub Awards : Best Food 2007
Wales the True Taste (Cymru y Gwir Flas) - Dining Out Gold 2005
AA Restaurant of the Year for Wales
Email:
info@thefoxhunter.com
Telephone: 01873 881101
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