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The Gastropub Cookbook
October 2003
THE FOXHUNTER, NANTYDERRY
The menu at The Foxhunter reads prosaically: artichoke soup, herb risotto with mascarpone, smoked haddock fishcakes with wild garlic mayonnaise. There are no fancy phrases or even much detail about cooking methods so the impact - when the food is delivered - is all the greater. There aren’t many meals where you sit and wonder what tricks the chef has pulled to make the food taste this good. Chef-owner Matt Tebbutt, who trained in London with Alistair Little, is a bold, confident, exceptionally gifted cook.
His risottos are among the best you will eat, either here or in Italy. His sorbets are so intense they stop you in your tracks. There just isn’t a duff on the menu. If Tebbutt’s food was fancier, he’d be in line for a Michelin star but thankfully that’s not his aim. He just cooks modern classics, from the Med to Thailand, with skill & polish.
The place is contemporary-country: flagstones and woodblock floors, slick beech furniture, big church candles burning in uncurtained windows, and wooden bowls of pears and gourds on the shelves. There’s a log fire, open to both the bar and the dining room, and watercolours and pastels by local artists.
Tebbutt comes out to chat to people, often with his baby in his arms. The Foxhunter is a calming, civilized place – worth a trip even if you have to drive for miles.
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AA Notable Wine List 2008 & 2009
Perfect Pub Awards : Best Food 2007
Wales the True Taste (Cymru y Gwir Flas) - Dining Out Gold 2005
AA Restaurant of the Year for Wales
Email:
info@thefoxhunter.com
Telephone: 01873 881101
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